If you read the INCI of a good Asian serum, sooner or later you come across a word: ferment. Saccharomyces ferment filtrate, Lactobacillus ferment, Bifida ferment lysate. They are among the most widespread ingredients in Korean and Japanese cosmetics, and for some years they have also been arriving in European formulas.
Let's see what they really are, without the mysticism that usually accompanies them.
What is a fermented ingredient
Fermentation is an ancient process: microorganisms — yeasts, lactic bacteria — transform a raw material into something else. It's how bread, wine, yogurt and miso are made.
In cosmetics it works the same way: a substrate (water, sugars, plant extracts) is placed in a fermenter together with a selected strain, the temperature and time are controlled, and finally it is filtered. What remains — the fermentation filtrate — is the cosmetic ingredient.
Beware of a frequent misunderstanding: there are no live microorganisms in the finished product. The filtrate is separated and the formula is preserved according to European standards. A fermented cosmetic is not yogurt on the face.
Why ferment instead of using the ingredient as it is
Three practical reasons.
Smaller molecules. Fermentation breaks down large molecules into smaller fragments. A smaller active ingredient is better distributed on the skin and is more easily absorbed by the superficial layers.
New compounds are born. During the process the microorganisms produce substances that were not present in the starting raw material: amino acids, peptides, organic acids, B group vitamins, polysaccharides. The final filtrate is richer than the initial ingredient.
Fewer irritants. Some potentially annoying plant components are transformed during fermentation. It's one of the reasons why fermented extracts are often well tolerated.
Forty years of Asian history
Japanese cosmetics has been working on ferments since the 1980s. Industry legend tells of researchers being impressed by the hands of sake brewery workers: elderly hands, but with surprisingly smooth skin. From there the research on yeast fermentation filtrates began.
Whether the anecdote is fictionalized or not, the result is that today yeast filtrate is one of the most studied and best-selling active ingredients in Asian cosmetics, and is the heart of some of the most expensive serums in the world.
The ferments in ELAXO formulas
In our two formulas there are three active ingredients obtained by fermentation. You can find them all in the INCI printed on the packaging.
Saccharomyces ferment filtrate
In the Serum and the Cream. It is the fermentation filtrate of the yeast, the family of active ingredients we were talking about above. It contributes to hydration, softness and luminosity of the complexion, and helps keep the skin comfortable over time.
Sphingomonas ferment extract
In the Serum. It derives from the fermentation of a bacterium of the Sphingomonas genus, which produces a polysaccharide capable of retaining water. It serves to maintain hydration in the superficial layers and to leave the skin relaxed.
Lactobacillus ferment
In the Cream. Lactic acid bacterial ferment that contributes to the comfort and well-being of the skin surface.
Ferments and probiotics are not the same thing
It is the most widespread confusion, fueled by marketing.
| What are they | |
|---|---|
| Probiotics | Live microorganisms. In cosmetics they are very rare: keeping them alive in a jar, and compliant with regulations, is very complicated |
| Postbiotics / ferments | What the microorganisms have produced, filtered and stabilized. It's what you find in almost all cosmetics |
| Prebiotics | Substances that nourish the microorganisms already present on the skin |
If a product declares "probiotics" on the label and the INCI reads ferment filtrate or ferment lysate, what you are buying is a postbiotic. It's not worse — in fact, it's more stable — but it's correct to call it by its name.
How to recognize them in the INCI
It's simple: search for the word ferment. The names almost always follow the same pattern.
- Saccharomyces ferment filtrate — yeast filtrate
- Lactobacillus ferment — lactic ferment
- Bifida ferment lysate — bifidobacteria lysate
- Galactomyces ferment filtrate — Galactomyces filtrate
- Sphingomonas ferment extract — Sphingomonas ferment extract
As always, look where they appear in the list: list position alone does not establish concentration or performance, particularly at 1% or below. How to read an INCI, in 7 criteria →
Frequently asked questions
Are fermented cosmetics suitable for those with sensitive skin?
Fermented active ingredients are generally well tolerated, which is one of the reasons for their popularity. But as with any cosmetic, tolerability depends on the entire formula, not on a single ingredient: if you have very reactive skin, read the complete INCI and test it on the crook of your arm.
Does a fermented product expire sooner?
No. The filtrate is stabilized and the formula is preserved like any other cosmetic. Refer to the PAO symbol on the packaging, which indicates within how many months to consume the product after opening.
Can ferments and PDRN be used together?
Yes, they work on different fronts and don't interfere. In our formulas they coexist in the same product: the PDRN supports the renewal processes, the ferments work on hydration and comfort.
Are the fermented ingredients vegan?
It depends on the starting substrate and the strain used: the ferments themselves derive from yeasts and bacteria, not from animals. However, the complete formula must be evaluated. In the case of ELAXO the products are not indicated as vegan, but for a different reason: the PDRN is of marine origin.
In summary
Ferments are neither a passing fad nor magic: they are a way of producing cosmetic active ingredients that has existed for decades, well documented, with a favorable tolerability profile. They do not replace other cosmetic ingredients such as PDRN or peptides — they accompany them, working on hydration, comfort and luminosity.
And that's exactly why we put them in both formulas.
All ELAXO active ingredients, one by one →
ELAXO Serum and Cream are available, also together in the Ritual.
