“Peptides” is a word found across the skincare shelf, yet it often explains very little. This guide helps you understand what they are, recognise them in an ingredient list and choose a peptide serum on more than its packaging.
What are cosmetic peptides?
A peptide is a short chain of amino acids. These are the building blocks the body uses to make proteins: a few linked units form a peptide; longer chains form proteins.
In cosmetics, peptides are functional ingredients within a complete formula. As with any cosmetic, their role concerns the skin's surface and appearance: a serum is not a medical treatment and should not be presented as one.
Why do peptides have different names?
Hexapeptide, pentapeptide, tetrapeptide: the prefix tells you how many amino acids make up the chain. Hexa means six, penta five, tetra four. The number that follows (‑12, ‑17) identifies a specific sequence, not its strength.
You may also see Palmitoyl before the name: it means a fatty chain has been attached to the peptide, a formulation technique used to improve its compatibility within the formula.
So a hexapeptide is not inherently better than a pentapeptide. They are different molecules selected for different purposes. Presenting them as a ranking of quality is marketing, not an explanation.
How to recognise a peptide in the INCI
Ingredient lists use international peptide names rather than trade names. Two examples from ELAXO formulas:
- Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 — hexapeptide‑12, found in the Serum
- Palmitoyl Sh-pentapeptide-17 — pentapeptide‑17, found in the Cream
A useful check beyond the claims: find the peptide in the ingredient list. Ingredients above 1% are listed in descending order; those at 1% or below may appear in any order after them. Position alone does not reveal a peptide's concentration or efficacy. Read how to read a cosmetic INCI list.
Peptides and PDRN in the same formula
Peptides and PDRN are not mutually exclusive: they belong to different ingredient families and can be used together. PDRN is declared in the INCI as Sodium DNA; ELAXO formulas combine it with peptides and plant-derived exosomes.
The Serum pairs PDRN with hexapeptide‑12 and exosomes from Centella asiatica; the Cream pairs it with pentapeptide‑17 and exosomes from watermelon (Citrullus lanatus) and grapefruit (Citrus paradisi). Learn more in facial exosomes: what they are and how they are used.
How to choose a peptide serum: five checks
- The peptide appears in the INCI, not only on the packaging. Look for the full ingredient name, not simply “peptides”.
- Consider the ingredient list. Its order offers context but cannot establish the exact concentration or performance of a peptide.
- Check what accompanies it. A peptide cannot explain a product's performance on its own; the entire formula matters.
- Check the Responsible Person. Every EU cosmetic must have an identifiable Responsible Person, CPNP notification and product safety documentation.
- Question overly precise figures. Improvement percentages and timed promises require specific studies; without them, these claims should not be used.
What about peptide creams?
The same principles apply, with one practical difference: a cream remains on the skin and completes the routine, so its texture and lipid base also matter. In ELAXO's Cream, for example, pentapeptide‑17 sits alongside sweet almond oil, squalane, sunflower oil and tocopherol.
Serum first, cream afterwards: the usual sequence moves from lighter to richer textures.
Frequently asked questions
Can peptides be used every day?
Cosmetic peptide formulas are designed for daily use. Compatibility depends on the whole formula and individual sensitivity: check the label's INCI and consider testing a small area if your skin is very reactive.
Peptides or retinol?
They are different ingredients with different application considerations. There is no competition: many routines use them at different times, for example at different points in the day.
How long before results are visible?
We do not promise a timeframe. Results depend on the individual, consistency and the rest of the routine. Giving everyone the same deadline would be misleading.
Can hexapeptide-12 and pentapeptide-17 be used together?
Yes. In a two-step routine, that is exactly what happens: one is in the serum, the other in the cream.
Key points
The prefix tells you chain length, not quality. A trade name does not replace the INCI. Check the ingredient list rather than relying on the packaging, while recognising that list position does not establish concentration. A peptide should be assessed within its complete formula.
The N°1 PDRN Face Serum is available, with its full INCI on the product page so you can check it yourself.
